Huai Kha Khaeng -
deserted, vast, a discovery.
Despite its World Heritage status - hardly any tourists
You won’t find this wildlife sanctuary on lists of Thailand’s famous national parks. But that can actually be an advantage. The park is home to no fewer than 62 mammal species! Much of this vast area has been left to develop naturally. Perhaps that’s why—and thanks to particularly active ranger protection—unlike most parks, tigers still live here!
Highlights of this national park
Huai Kha Khaeng National Park is mostly hilly, with evergreen hill forests, deciduous forests and bamboo forests. Several large rivers run through the park, which is surrounded by grassland.
The reserve is one of the least accessible in Thailand. That is probably why around a third of all mammal species found in Southeast Asia can still be seen here.
Tigers have recently returned to the area, after disappearing for years due to rampant poaching.
For visitors, the more open woodland is appealing because it makes wildlife easier to spot than, for example, in dense jungle. But even then, remember: nothing is guaranteed, and anything is possible!
Wildlife Sanctuary Visit
Park
During my stay of several days, I didn’t see a single tourist! I only came across a few school groups from the region.
The park is one of the largest continuous protected areas in Southeast Asia. It’s too far away for a short visit from Bangkok (320 km) or Ayutthaya (240 km).
A 3-day tour of the park is usually offered, including two nights in a tent. I highly recommend the experienced and reliable Tontan Travel agency!
Wildlife
Bantengs - the last wild cattle
There are only around 5,000–8,000 of these brown wild cattle left worldwide. Thailand’s largest population is right here in Huai Kha Khaeng! They live in small herds of up to 30 animals and are prey for predators such as tigers.
The green peafowl
Only about 15,000–30,000 of this particularly beautiful peafowl species, found only in Southeast Asia, remain! They are listed as endangered on the Red List. When they fan out their brilliantly colored tails, they can reach up to 2 m across. At night, they roost in trees 2–3 m above the ground. You can get a wonderful view of them from one of the watchtowers at Huai Kha Khaeng!
Spot the animals
The jungle isn’t a zoo, so there’s no guarantee you’ll see any particular animals. But I like to keep a close eye on the trail as I walk. Tracks often tell you which animals are nearby! It’s especially fun if you’re out with children.
Tiger -
King of the Jungle
12.08.21 At the beginning of the 20th century, there were still around 100,000 tigers worldwide. By 2010, the remaining wild population was estimated at a mere 3,100. Thailand is currently thought to have between 130 and 160 tigers left. Poaching is the main reason for the dramatic decline. Demand for tiger products in traditional Chinese medicine has put enormous pressure on the species. Thankfully, trade in these products is now also banned in China. But illegal trade continues. Often, extreme poverty among people living around the parks drives them to set snares in the jungle—catching and killing whatever gets trapped in them. That’s why it’s so important to help these communities earn a living without poaching, for example through jobs in the national parks. The parks’ closure during the COVID-19 pandemic, and the loss of tourism revenue, has also had a devastating indirect effect on protecting wildlife from poaching!
Tiger Tracks—a stroke of luck!
Anyone heading into the jungle to see wildlife dreams of encountering a tiger (from a safe distance). But tigers are so shy and so good at hiding that they’re rarely seen. For many years, people therefore believed they had disappeared entirely from many parks. It was only when camera traps were introduced that tiger populations were confirmed to have survived in some regions.
You’re lucky if, like Tan from
Tontan Travel
you spot fresh tiger tracks here in Huai Kha Kaeng!
The first time I found fresh tiger tracks in Khao Sok was in 1999. As far as I know, there are no tigers there anymore! The next time, I saw tracks with Toni and Tan from Tontan Travel in Huai Kha Kaeng . They weren’t quite as fresh, though—they were several days old. But what an experience!
Hope for Thailand’s tigers?
Recent estimates suggest that around 2,000 tigers live in Thai zoos, with private owners, and in questionable facilities. In the wild, perhaps only around 160 remain, having survived the extreme poaching of recent decades. Most are thought to live in the vast forest area around Huai Kha Khaeng. Their preferred prey includes banteng, gaur, wild boar, and sambar deer. These magnificent animals can survive in the wild only if park rangers are well paid and equipped, and people living near the parks have a reliable livelihood that gives them an alternative to poaching.