In recent years, I’ve noticed that dishes made with crab meat have become more popular in Thailand’s seafood restaurants.

You’ll often find it served with fried rice—that classic favorite.

 In Thai, this dish is called Khao Pad.

Why is it so popular?

For me, the most important reason is clearly the taste. Crab meat has a distinctive quality compared with many other kinds of seafood.

It has a slightly sweet, delicate flavor and is firm yet juicy.

And it goes wonderfully with spicy, salty fried rice.

Lime juice, fish sauce and a touch of sweetness are often added, too.

When done well, the dish looks simple but tastes surprisingly sophisticated.

 Another advantage is freshness.

Shrimp and crabs are hardier than many other sea creatures served in Bangkok.

That makes them easier to transport live and keep in water tanks at restaurants. If you see tanks like these, it’s usually a good sign. You can be pretty sure that nothing frozen and thawed is going to end up on your plate. This makes a real difference, especially with crab meat.

 In Thailand, there are two main culinary types of crab. First, there are the so-called mud crabs.

They are also known as mangrove crabs. They are especially popular because their meat is often a little sweeter, richer and firmer. They also have large, strong claws, which means more meat. The best specimens are often wild-caught, especially in the Andaman Sea, where they are caught in traps and set nets.

Most of these are black mud crabs. There are also green mud crabs, which are easier to farm. I’ve seen small crab farms like these around Ranong. They’re often very modest operations.

The second important group is blue swimming crabs. They are found mainly in the Gulf of Thailand. I find their meat milder overall, a little sweeter and almost buttery. It is often more delicate than the meat of mud crabs, but here too, quality varies considerably.

Quality comes at a price. If you’re looking for good, fresh crab meat, it’ll cost a little more. Very cheap options almost always mean poor-quality crab meat, and I think it’s perfectly fine to treat yourself while on vacation.

Crab meat isn’t a side dish to fill you up. It’s a delicacy. So don’t just look at how much crab meat is on the plate—pay attention to its freshness, texture and flavor.

That’s exactly how you can tell whether you’re getting a decent dish or one you’ll really remember.

My personal tip before you go:

I’ve had excellent Khao Pad—fried rice with lots of crab meat—at Here Hai restaurant on Sukhumvit Road, and also at Ann in Tha Din Daeng Road
on the west bank of the Chao Phraya.

You’ll find both restaurants in my book. When you order their crab meat, take a moment with your first bite. Let this delicacy melt in your mouth and savour every morsel.