Walk in Rommanneenat Park

This walk through the Old Town combines cultural attractions with wonderful street food experiences.



Part 1: approx. [5:12]

Part 2: approx. [5:09] 

As of April 2026

Audio transcript

Part 1: A–D

Stop A – Villa de Pranakorn

We start on the northeast side of Rommaneenat Park, right by the Villa de Pranakorn hotel. This charming boutique hotel is one of my personal favorites in Bangkok’s Old Town. You can read more about it in the book. Even from this corner of the park, it’s clear that this place has an unusual history. Where people now stroll beneath the trees once stood one of Thailand’s most modern prisons: Klong Prem Prison.

Built in the late 19th century on European models, particularly those from London, it remained in operation for almost a century before closing in 1987 due to chronic overcrowding and being relocated.

Station B – Rommaneenat Park

While walking through the park, take a look at the former cell block.

The small cells quickly make clear just how cramped conditions must have been here. At the same time, the barred walls provided at least some air circulation in Bangkok’s oppressive heat.

The fact that this site wasn’t turned into another development but became a public park is a real stroke of luck for the city. A green oasis was created here in honor of Queen Sirikit, and it is now especially popular with local residents. Right behind the former cell block is also one of the city’s best outdoor gyms.

One of the park’s special features is its many tables and seating areas. Perfect for a short break or a picnic—and that’s exactly what my next recommendation is for.

Station C – Jack's Chicken Rice

If I could recommend just one classic street food dish, Khao Man Gai—Thailand’s take on the famous Hainanese chicken rice—would be one of my top picks.

The preparation sounds simple at first. Chicken bones are simmered for hours with ginger, garlic and spices. Some of the fragrant broth is later used to cook the rice. It’s served with tender poached chicken, a flavorful sauce and, of course, a small bowl of the rich broth. But, as so often, the magic is in the details.

What Jack prepares here every morning is almost perfect in my book. So here’s my tip: come as early as you can. Everything is fresh then, and there’s plenty to choose from.

His little street-food stall on the corner of the park is one of the best street-food spots in the city, in my opinion.

After a hearty meal, it’s on to

Stop D – Wat Suthat

If you find the famous Wat Pho too touristy or crowded, you’ll love this temple.

Wat Suthat is one of Bangkok’s most important temple complexes and is considered by many Thais to be the spiritual heart of the Old City.

Here, you can still see monks going about their daily lives.

You can see them, for example, studying religious texts beneath the long colonnades or on their way to prayers.

I often just sit in the courtyard here and watch life at the temple go by. After a few minutes, a sense of calm sets in—the kind that’s become rare in Bangkok.

The large ubosot, or ordination hall, is especially worth seeing. Its murals are among the most beautiful in all of Thailand. From floor to ceiling, they tell stories from the life of the Buddha and from Thai mythology.

Every time I visit, I discover new details. I’m glad that Germany also helped fund the painstaking restoration a few years ago.

Rising in front of the temple is one of the Old City’s most famous landmarks:

Station E – The Giant Swing

Today, the mighty red-painted teak pillars look almost a little lost in the vast square. But for many generations, they were at the heart of a spectacular ceremony.

Every year, during a Brahmin festival, young men would venture out onto a narrow plank attached to the swing. They would swing higher and higher with ever more powerful movements, until finally, some fifteen metres above the ground, they tried to grab a small bag of silver coins with their teeth.

A dangerous spectacle.

Serious accidents occurred time and again, and some participants lost their lives. The ceremony was finally banned in 1935.

Today, the Giant Swing stands as a national cultural monument, commemorating this extraordinary tradition.

That brings the first part of our walk to an end.

If you’re tired or thirsty by now, you’ll find the modern Chingcha Hostel on the right side of the square. Head up to the 6th floor for an affordable sky bar with a wonderful view. Just the thing to end your visit—or stop by before part 2 of our walk.

Part 2: F - J

After all that history and culture, it’s time to explore Bangkok’s culinary scene.

Station F – The Gingerbread House

Cross the large square and turn left into Soi Lang Bot Phram.

After just a few meters, you’ll spot one of the old town’s most beautiful historic houses on your right, hidden behind an old tree. It’s known as the Gingerbread House.

Although the name means “gingerbread house,” it has nothing to do with the Brothers Grimm fairy tale. In Thailand, it refers instead to a distinctive architectural style with elaborate wood carvings.

The more than 100-year-old teak house has been lovingly restored and transformed into an exceptional café. Every room tells its own story. Family photos, antiques, and keepsakes bring old Siam back to life. Take your time. Wander through the rooms on both floors and enjoy the special atmosphere.

My favorite spot is in the semicircular bay window on the ground floor, overlooking the street. I like to order an assortment of traditional Thai desserts with a chilled Thai iced tea. What arrives looks like a collection of little works of art: colorful sweets, beautifully arranged and topped with a perfectly sliced mango—the queen of Thai desserts.

That alone makes it worth a visit.

Station G – The Swing Bar

Back at the large square, look across to the other side. That’s where you’ll find Swing Bar at Ching Cha Hostel.

From the outside, the building looks rather unremarkable. But climb the narrow stairs to the sixth floor and you’ll be richly rewarded. Before you lies one of the Old Town’s finest views. You can see Wat Suthat, the Giant Swing and the rooftops of historic Bangkok. In the distance, bridges over the Chao Phraya shimmer.

I love sitting right by the balustrade, with a cold drink and a few Thai snacks. No dress code, no inflated prices—just a view you won’t forget.

Station H – Kope Hya Tai

If you’re out and about in the morning, I’d also like to share a special breakfast tip. The historic Kope Hya Tai is right on the corner of the square. Here you can try the kind of breakfast many Thai families start their day with. Kai Kra Ta is especially popular: two fried eggs served in a small pan, with savory minced meat and other hearty ingredients. A simple dish—but just the kind of breakfast that sets you up for the day.

Station I – Jay Fai

Just a few minutes’ walk away is a legend of the international street food scene.

Jay Fai.

She was the first street food chef in the world to be awarded a Michelin star. Although she’s now over eighty, she still often works the wok herself. Her signature look is known well beyond Thailand: the large ski goggles she wears to protect herself from the heat and sparks while cooking. She became famous above all for her legendary crab omelette. International TV shows, food bloggers and Hollywood stars have all discovered Jay Fai. As a result, the queues have grown long. And a meal here isn’t cheap either. An omelette currently costs around €40.

But if you’re willing to wait and spend a little more, you can try one of Asia’s most famous street food dishes here.

Stop J – Thipsamai

Our final stop is less spectacular, but just as interesting from a culinary perspective. Many consider Thipsamai the best place in Bangkok for Pad Thai. Pad Thai only came about around eighty years ago, but it has long been one of the country’s most popular dishes. I tell the full story in Audio 23.

What arrives on the plate here is made with excellent ingredients and prepared to perfection. A big plus for many European visitors: Pad Thai is usually not spicy, making it an ideal introduction to Thai cuisine. If you can, come between 10 and 11 in the morning, when it’s usually not too busy. And if you don’t want to make a special trip here, you’ll also find a branch in Siam Paragon Shopping Center.

That brings our walk around Rommaneenat Park to an end.

Perhaps you learned something new about Bangkok’s history along the way. Maybe you also discovered some new favorite dishes. That would make me especially happy!