Part 1: A–C

When I first visited Bangkok in 1993, life was still very laid-back.

Only five million tourists visited Thailand each year back then. There were no crowds at the temples or the palace.

Things are very different these days.

That means you should plan your visit so you can still enjoy it.

The most important thing first: Arrive early if you want to explore the grounds without too much hassle.

Station A: Let’s start with the famous Wat Pho.

I recommend downloading the “Inside Wat Pho” app before your visit. You’ll find a reference to it in the book index. The app includes an audio guide to all the main areas, an online game for children and a detailed map of the grounds.

However, they’re only available in English.

Alternatively, you can book a tour with one of the well-known agencies.

The reclining Buddha is 46 meters long and completely covered in gold leaf. What impresses me most are the soles of his feet, decorated with mother-of-pearl motifs.

It’s well worth a visit, even with children. They can put coins in the 108 bowls along the Buddha, which, from what I’ve seen, they really enjoy. You can buy the coins on site.

For me, Wat Pho is above all a temple of small, unassuming courtyards. They’re tucked away behind the grand buildings and accessible only via narrow paths. Take a look around!

They’re beautiful and also make wonderful photo subjects.

You can also enjoy a massage within the temple grounds. Wat Pho is considered the birthplace of Thai massage and is home to the country’s most famous massage school.

If you need a moment to unwind at the end of your temple visit, you’ll find the lovely little Ha Tien café near the exit by the Reclining Buddha. Find out more in the book.

I’ve also marked a photo spot where you can get excellent shots of the beautiful Wat Arun across the river.

A little further along, you’ll come to

Station B: the Grand Palace.

In this case, I really recommend taking a guided tour, as described in the book. Otherwise, it’s easy to get lost among the many impressive sights across this vast site.

Children in particular are fascinated by the large, imposing, mythical guardian figures.

The kings of Thailand lived in the palace until 1946. Since then, they have lived in a secluded palace nearby.

Just a little tip:

The grounds also feature a large replica of the famous Cambodian temple complex of Angkor Wat. What is this replica doing here? The explanation is simple.

This part of the neighboring country was part of the old Kingdom of Siam, as Thailand was known until 1939, until 1907.

If visiting the sprawling palace feels like too much, at least take a quick look at the famous Wat Phra Kaeo, home of the beautiful Emerald Buddha, the country’s most important religious icon.

It was first discovered in northern Chiang Rai in 1434 and has had a turbulent history ever since.

When you leave the palace and head towards our next stop, you’ll pass through the old town. This is what the whole area used to look like. There were rows of densely packed, single-storey houses, with shops and storerooms on the ground floor and families living upstairs.

What a contrast with the new Bangkok and its skyline of skyscrapers! I love the peace and quiet you’ll find in these little streets.

By the way: If you’re craving ice cream in the heat of the day, I’ve marked a very good ice cream shop called “Nataporn” on the map just before the next stop.

There’s delicious coconut and green matcha ice cream.

Just a few meters farther along, you’ll come to



Station C: Dem Kor Panich.

In my opinion, this is the best mango sticky rice in town. Enjoy these golden-yellow, juicy mangoes with wonderfully creamy rice and delicious sweet coconut cream with just a hint of salt. Everything is made using an old family recipe.

Dessert is a little more expensive here, but in my opinion it’s worth it. It’s a wonderfully indulgent end to the first part of our walk.

Part 2: D – F

 If you continue walking from Kor Panich, you'll come to an area of the Old Town that I particularly like. This is where so much of what makes Bangkok special comes together.

History, traffic, heat, temples, open spaces, and finally a view from above. Follow my route and you’ll be able to spot it from a distance.

Station D: The Giant Swing

When you reach the large square, you’ll see a strange-looking, large red frame in front of you, called “Chao Chingcha” in Thai.

For me, the Giant Swing is one of the Old Town’s most distinctive landmarks. It’s not just a great photo spot; it holds a lot of history.

It was once part of a religious ritual.

Every December, four young men would climb onto a narrow board and swing 15 meters into the air, trying to catch a bag of silver coins with their teeth. Some paid for this daring ritual with their lives, and it was finally discontinued in 1935. Learn more about these death-defying stunts in audio feature 20 on the Giant Swing. Immediately behind the Giant Swing, you’ll see

Stop E: Wat Suthat.

If the crowds at Wat Pho sound like too much, visit this unusually beautiful temple instead. It feels much more authentic and offers a better glimpse of how Buddhist monks still live in a temple today. I only discovered Wat Suthat late on a walk to the Giant Swing.

Since then, it’s been my favourite place to find a little peace amid the bustle of this metropolis of millions—without the noisy crowds of tourists.

When I see the monks sitting in the cloisters studying their Buddhist texts, their sense of calm rubs off on me too.

I take my time on the temple grounds, sit down, watch, relax, and then go into the impressive main building, known as the ubosot.

It is a large, high-ceilinged room painted in dark colors. You can see scenes from the life of the Buddha, mythological figures and literary themes. There are so many different depictions that each time I take my time to look at a different scene.

These paintings, among the most beautiful in Thailand, shine so brilliantly in part thanks to our government, which supported their restoration. At the end of this walk, I’ll take you to one more place—one I often choose to round off an afternoon in the Old City.

Station F: the Swing Bar.

It’s a rooftop bar, and first you’ll have to climb a narrow staircase to the sixth floor, as there’s no elevator.

From two levels, one above the other, you then get a view of the square with the Giant Swing, Wat Suthat, and, in the distance, the large bridges over the Chao Phraya.

Enjoying the sunset here at the end of an eventful day with a cold drink is simply perfect.