Chatuchak Weekend Market is one of Bangkok’s best-known markets. And yes, it’s a tourist market, but in my opinion, quite rightly so.

It takes its name from the large Chatuchak Park next door.

Originally, though, this market wasn’t intended for tourists at all.

It was aimed at ordinary Thai people.

The story begins in 1948. At the time, Prime Minister Phibun ordered every province to hold a large flea market regularly to promote local trade.

In Bangkok, this market was originally held at Sanam Luang, right next to the royal palace. But in the late 1980s, the grounds began to be used more for national ceremonies, so the market had to move. Today, it is farther north, next to Chatuchak Park.

As the number of visitors to Thailand grew, so did the market.

There are around 15,000 stalls here today, and during peak season up to 300,000 visitors come on weekends. It sounds fascinating—and it is. But given the market’s sheer size, there are a few things to keep in mind so you can really enjoy your visit. First, a few practical tips.

As at all major tourist destinations, watch out for pickpockets.

Don’t keep money, your phone or other valuables in your back pocket or the back of your daypack. Keep your valuables close to your body.

Also, make sure to bring enough cash in Thai baht.

Card payments aren’t accepted everywhere in the market. There are ATMs, but queues are often long. One more practical tip from personal experience: it’s best to use the toilet before visiting the market. There are toilets at the entrances and in many sections, but using them usually costs around 5 baht.

But if you’re rummaging around in the middle of the market, looking for it isn’t exactly pleasant.

There’s also a clean restroom at the subway station near the entrance to Chatuchak, by the way.

Let’s talk about finding your way around, because it’s really important at Chatuchak. Try to get a market map in advance—you can pick one up at the information booth, for example.

At weekends, I recommend going either early in the morning, from around 9:00, or later in the afternoon. You’ll avoid the worst of the heat and the biggest crowds, and sometimes you’ll find the best bargains at those times. And of course, a visit to Chatuchak wouldn’t be complete without something to eat.

When I stroll through the market, I usually skip a big meal. I’d rather sample a little something here and there.

Coconut ice cream is especially delicious. Sometimes it’s even served in half a coconut shell.

Mango or other fruit smoothies are also great for a short break. Or try small pork skewers grilled over charcoal, called “Moo Ping.” The aroma alone is often enough to lead you right to them.

There is one section of the market I would personally avoid, though. In the northwest corner, there’s an area where animals are sold. I’ll be blunt: I strongly advise against visiting this part. I find it depressing.

Traders are repeatedly caught trying to sell protected species there, despite it being illegal. And seeing the animals in cramped cages ruins the whole market visit for me.

Focus instead on the best of Chatuchak: crafts, clothes, plants, design, food and the incredible market atmosphere. If you come prepared, arrive at the right time and take it easy, Chatuchak is one of the most exciting markets you can experience in Bangkok.

It’s easy to lose your bearings in the covered sections. The aisles all look alike, the stalls change, and suddenly you don’t know which section you’re in. When I get lost there, I keep it simple: I find an exit to the open air, then use the clock tower at the north end of the market to get my bearings.

My advice: don’t try to cover the whole market systematically—it’s almost impossible. Let yourself wander, but keep a few key landmarks in mind. Timing also makes a big difference at this market. It’s open on Friday evenings from 6 p.m. to midnight, too. In my experience, that’s the best time to explore the market at a relatively relaxed pace.